The Little Stream of the Dead
Glaisin na Marbh/the little stream of the dead uniquely encapsulates a period in our history. It is remote and inaccessible under the southern shadow of Shehy/Glena Mountain to the west and high over Killarney’s Middle and Lower Lakes.
A first visit here is best done with somebody who knows the route. It is very easy to get lost in the entanglement of rhododendron and oak over boggy, uneven ground. Looking back over the ever expanding view of the lakes, the Long Range River – that joins the Upper Lake to the other two – in the background the bulk of Torc and Mangerton, the Muckross woodlands and pastures and the town of Killarney.
Rising above the rhododendron, crossing boggy open area, walking through groves of oak the ever increasing re-occurrences of individual rhododendron plants remind that the area could again be infested with the ‘pernicious weed’ if it is not kept in train.
This is an area world famous for its bryophytes (mosses, liverworts and ferns). In the first half of the 19th century Dr Thomas Taylor is credited with identifying up to a hundred new mosses in this area.
Now getting close to Glaisin na Marbh there is more holly than oak. Gene Tangney of Gearhameen says that each of the hollies marks a grave. The coffins of those who died in this high region were carried across the mountain to be buried in Muckross Abbey. Maybe those lifting rested their load here and that was how Glaisin was named.
The mountains are green already – which doesn’t normally happen until early July.
The swarm of ticks that rose up around us here appeared to be quickly discouraged by our midge repellent.
The wide, shallow lazy beds of the pre-famine period are particularly clear here. With the advent of the potato it was possible to survive in places like Glaisin na Marbh. Potatoes could be grown successfully on high, barren sites like this, and it is possible to survive on a daily diet of three meals of potatoes and a little buttermilk. In July, between the potato crops, the people ate cabbage. The population doubled between 1740 and 1840. Life expectancy at that time was 34!.
The walk home is a particular pleasure – provided you have no doubt about the route. Now the rising is over. Though sometimes the way down can be more difficult to find and the slippery surface is more difficult to negotiate on falling ground.
The walk to Glaisín satisfies all of the senses …
Last Sunday (May 20, 2018) two hours in the exclosure in the ancient oak woodlands in Derrycunnihy. Here the intention was to keep the deer out to allow the woodlands to regenerate.
This is the south eastern edge of the most extensive Oak Woodland in Ireland. The 1,500 acres extends to the north west corner of Loch Lein.
Mountains near Gallan Eile on March 6, 2018
March 3, 2018 Muckross GardensMarch 3, 2018 Mangerton Road
– a ruined relic of a royal visit
Imagine the great flotilla of boats on the lake in front of Glena Bay on that day in August 1861 when Queen Victoria and her entourage visited Lord Castlerosse’s cottage ornee in the south west corner of Lough Leane in Killarney.
Glena was built in the 1820s. It has two very extensive piers – one for the Kenmares and their guests and, presumably, the other for servants and supplies.
By any standards this was a very grand cottage, perhaps the very finest visitor structure of its kind in the country.
In 1834 a bungalow-style structure – variously called ‘the ballroom’ and ‘the banqueting hall’ was built nearby to look after visitors with two or three of its own piers. By then Lady Castlerosse wanted Glena Cottage for her personal use. Nearby is the ruined gamekeepers cottage and various outhouses.
The royal party landed on the well-appointed pier and came up on the well-manicured lawn in front of the cottage.
The grounds had been extensively landscaped for the royal visit. It was said lunch was in danger of being spoiled Castlerosse spent so much time showing the Queen what he had done. The extensive stone stairways, paths and viewing points are now engulfed in rhododendon.
Was lunch steaks of salmon freshly caught in the lake and skewered on arbutus and roasted around an open fire – a favourite Killarney dish.
During the lunch there was consternation. The great stag to be shot by the queen had escaped. It had been corralled nearby for weeks. Later when it was re-captured Her Majesty decreed it be set free.
Do the daffodils here date from that time?
Now the ruins are a sad relic of what used to be.
In 1922 Glena Cottage was burned down. The jambs over several of the doors show the burning.
Glena is a very special building in a spectacular location on the shore of Lough Leane, under the shadow of Glena mountain. Now in an advanced state of ruin with its grounds suffocated by rhododendron.
The cottage, the grounds. the ‘banqueting hall’, piers, gamekeepers cottage and outhouses are crying out to be restored as a unique record in a very special place.
– Frank Lewis
PS Going to Glena by boat is very straightforward going overland from Dinis via the Old Weir Bridge needs a guide … particularly now as the tunnel through the rhododendron was partly collapsed by the snow this March.
ARD NA gCOISTÍ TO THE FOOT OF MANGERTON
My daily – sometimes twice daily – trek from Ard na gCoistí to the foot of Mangerton mountain is best in the hour of the magically emerging new day between first light and sunrise.
The timeless sheep could have been in that stable. It was a particularly appropriate image on Christmas Eve and on December 29 and, as you can see, the sheep were not disturbed by my three canine companions.
MUCKROSS & DINIS
“What is that?” I asked pointing at the hazy yellow clumb some distance inside the electric fence along the side of the Western Meadow on the Muckross Peninsula in the Killarney National Park.
“Is it primroses?” Colm wondered. But my flowerbook says ‘… the first primroses start to bloom in March’ … and we were walking the Muckross and Dinis route on New Year’s Day.
I rolled under the electric fence to get close enough to take the photograph. The ragged flowers had been preyed on by a slug or other insect. It did not look much like ‘the first rose’ the translation of its botanical name primula.
In medieval times a potion made from primroses was used to cure gout and rheumatism, and an infusion was taken for nervous headaches. The flowers were used in the preparation of love potions.
The most visible new growths this Christmas season were the hazel catkins along the south western edge of the western meadow.
After oak and yew, swamp woodland is the third significant area of Killarney’s arboreal wealth. In European designation it is the most important. The alder gathers nitrogen from the air, is believed to harbour evil and was used to make clogs.
I have walked Muckross and Dinis every Christmas Day since childhood, except on the odd occasion when flooding blocked the way. Endless variation of woodland, lake and mountain. Something new around every bend.
SNOW AT GALLAN EILE
The hours of heavy snow in the afternoon on St Stephen’s Day made the garden steps at Gallan Eile slippery so I did not get down to photograph the house and the full extent of the wall. I will show you the full six foot high, two to three foot wide wall in next week’s notebook.
Strong woodland colour shines through the heavy snow.
The ferro-concrete geese by Katie Goodhue have an entirely natural pose – looking at one another, pecking for food.
Constant heavy rain in the morning and snow in the afteroon made this the first Stephen’s Day for years that I have not gone walking
DERRICUNNIHY TO KATE KEARNEY’S
From Derrycunnihy to Kate Kearney’s is a walk that has everything – oak woodland, waterfall, lake side, our highest mountains, the Gap of Dunloe rift valley. It is a walk for any weather – unless high water in the lake floods the southern end of the route which runs through marsh.
As Fionan and I walked on the Wednesday after Christmas I wondered what this season was like on their island home for 18th century mathematician Philip Ronayne and his black servant. Or the unfaithful wife of Lord Brandon detained in the nearby tower.
Fionan and I were on Ross Island on Thursday (December 28) and on Saturday Colm and I walked from the Cathedral along the river walk to Ross Castle and then on to Governor’s Rock. On both days the flooding through the swamp woodland on the way to Library Point was too high for our boots.
Apart from a night of Storm Dylan and an evening of Hurricane Eleanor this festive season my rain gear was not drenched any evening arriving home. It was not very cold. Bracing might be more descriptive, definitely not bikini weather.
Imagine Niamh rising out of this great body of water, from eternal Spring in her home at Tir na nOg/the land where nobody grows old. Or Fionn Mac Cumhaill turning the waters of O’Sullivan’s Cascade across the way into whiskey punch – until the arrival of the first sassanach (Englishman) undid his magic.
This is a magical place enhanced hugely by its wealth of story. A land to spend Christmas – or any other time.
– memories from eight Kerry sites
Ireland is now half way through a decade of marking a centenary of revolutionary activity that started with the lock-out of 1913 and from there .. the 1916 rising.. the War of Independence and finally the awful Civil War.
Recently we recorded a radio programme (Radio Kerry Saturday December 30 – 9 to 11am) visiting eight Kerry sites with memories of those times.
In Listowel 13 Royal Irish Constabulary (RIC) officers mutinied when they were given ‘shoot to kill’ instructions on 17 June 1921. This started a flood of over 2,700 resignations from the RIC force of 7,000 – many of them to join the fight for Irish freedom.
Roger Casement was knighted for his humanitarian work in Africa and South America. His hope to help the cause of Irish freedom failed because of bad weather, poor communications and incompetence. And a good policeman’s career was maliciously destroyed.
Here at Ballyseedy in March1923 eight anti-treaty supporters were blown to bits on a barricade land-mined by Nation army/pro treaty supporters. This was the worst civil war atrocity in Kerry. Stephen Fuller was blown clear of the explosion and survived to become a member of the Dail/the Irish Parliament.
The names inscribed on the monument remember the dead from both sides. Might the theme of the monument suggest a non violent fight .. to fight to make Ireland a better place for all?
Thomas Ashe was the first republican prisoner to die on hunger strike. He died, at the age of 32, on September the 25th 1917, after only five days without food, because the inexperienced doctor whose force feeding went into his lungs.
Ashe is credited with leading the only outright military success during the 1916 rising. His funeral, attended by 150,000, is said to have been the largest ever in Ireland. Michael Collins gave the oration at the grave. Following the execution of the rising leaders the death of Thomas Ashe galvanised the nation to the War of Independence.
An anti-treaty force of some 500 attacked Killorglin on 27th September 1922. The town was defended by a national army pro-treaty force of sixty. After 24 hours of attack and counter attack, explosion and tunneling through buildings, the Republicans/anti-treaty forces retreated when Free State troops arrived from Tralee.
At several dozen the reports of those killed in Killorglin were wildly exaggerated. The real figure was probably between three and six.
Most of those involved in 1916, the War of Independence and the Civil War were very young. It made sense to focus on recruits who were physically fit. Many members of the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) were also involved in the military activity. This was very important in rocketing the number of volunteer recruits – rising from 25,00 in April 1914 to 180,000 that June.
Dick Fitzgerald won All Ireland Football medals with Kerry in 1913 and 1914. He organised football competitions in the Frongoch Prisoner of War Camp in Wales where he was in prison for his military activities. He later wrote ‘How to Play Gaelic Football’ the first GAA instruction manual.
At least fourteen people died when the Irish Volunteers attacked a train with British soldiers at Headford Junction on March 21 1921 – nine British soldiers, two IRA volunteers and three civilians.
In early June 1921 10,000 British troops, under Major Bernard Law Montgomery and Major A E Percival, swept the nearby Clydagh Valley in search of IRA strongholds and arms dumps. This was one of the biggest manhunts in the history of the British Army. It was the last major operation by the British in the War of Independence. It was also the first time the British used air support in Ireland. Another first was the large scale civilian involvement in a conflict – as a result the operation had limited success. None of the key IRA commanders were captured.
In the early hours of September 9 1922 members of the National army 20 year old Brigadier Tom O’Connor Scarteen and his 25 year old brother Captain John O’Connor Scarteen were gunned down in their home at 5 Main Street Kenmare by former comrades when an anti Treaty column of over eighty men attacked the town.
The Irish Civil War was the most awful event in our history, with few if any redeeming features. Brother/neighbour/friend fighting one another. It was the late 20th century before the deep scars started to heal.
The challenge for the commemoration of the centenary of the Civil War in 2022/23 is to confront the issues and remember all and, in learning from the past, going forward together to make the best society for all.