Walking along the Kerry Way east from Blackwater Bridge reveals the most unusual sea walk in Kerry, an experience entirely missed driving along the N70 about 13kms on the Sneem side of Kenmare.
Walking east from Blackwater bridge for a couple of hundred yards on the N70 a fingerpost on the right/south side plunges into woodland. By the side of the path carpets of vivid wood anemones.
A little way along a well defined track leads down to a sandy beach along the estuary of the River Blackwater, which is just short of Kenmare Bay.
Climbing back up the track to re-join the path and then the main forestry road.
A little way along a large area of fine conifer woodland has been clear-felled. The stumps and branches looks like a war zone.
In a few minutes we have dropped to the coast. The staggered line of large Monterey Pine are one of the defining features of the route. Kenmare Bay glistened under the bright sunlight from the clear blue sky. Across the way the entire northern coastline of the Beara Peninsula, with its mountainous backbone, to Dursey Island at its western tip.
An earlier Lord Lansdowne named this area of sea Kenmare River because the law allowed him to net for salmon on a river.
Along the way, on both sides of the track, endless carpets of lesser celandine.
Some way along from a high outcrop picnic tables and benches look west along the bay. Even the brother was in awe at the scene.
At sea level underneath boots and socks were taken off to refresh feet in water that was much warmer than anticipated.
Continuing high over the sea through an area of mixed scrub wood and bushes.
Now up steps. In a little while the path turns inland, along a deep gorge that was first carved out by the passage of ice between two million and 14,000 years ago and has been further shaped in spate times by the river that runs along its base.
At a T junction the route joins the main forest road. The Kerry Way continues right/east to Kenmare. After crossing the large clear-felled ‘war zone’ the route is through dense conifer woodland – the kind of big trees that warm the woodman’s heart.
Look out for a path on the left to a holy well. The large stone marking the diversion is faced in the opposite direction. Most holy well were associated with eye cures. Delay a while to say a quiet prayer.
Now we re-join the outward journey.
Immediately on the eastern side of Blackwater Bridge walk north – on the road signposted Derreendarragh – in less than a hudred hards follow the dirt road down left. A hundred yards down go through the wooden gate on the left/southern side.
On the banks of the Blackwater shows the depth of the gorge and the great engineering feat the bridge is, built on rock outcrops on both banks and a great high pillar of brick in the middle.
What better way to spend a couple of hours?
– Frank Lewis
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